http://theandyrhodes.com Andy Rhodes is a Texas-based freelance writer specializing in travel and culture-related projects. Mon, 12 Mar 2012 14:31:00 +0000 http://snappages.com en http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2012/03/12/comanche-trail http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2012/03/12/comanche-trail Mon, 12 Mar 2012 14:31:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2012/03/12/comanche-trail


]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2012/01/09/way-out-west http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2012/01/09/way-out-west Mon, 09 Jan 2012 17:07:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2012/01/09/way-out-west




]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/12/01/cultural-combo http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/12/01/cultural-combo Thu, 01 Dec 2011 16:55:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/12/01/cultural-combo


]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/10/28/queuing-up-for-%e2%80%98cue http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/10/28/queuing-up-for-%e2%80%98cue Fri, 28 Oct 2011 16:58:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/10/28/queuing-up-for-%e2%80%98cue

Barbecue aficionados around the country are drooling uncontrollably over a relative newcomer to the Central Texas scene. Franklin Barbecue has received rave reviews (including a “best in the country” nod from Bon Appetit magazine). With lofty expectations like that, it’s often hard to live up to the hype, but Franklin’s ‘cue is indeed incomparable. There aren’t too many places where you can say it’s worth waiting more than an hour for the food, but their perfect post oak-smoked brisket, sublime sausage, and premiere potato salad are worth waiting in line for two hours.

Another personal favorite is Louie Mueller Barbecue, just north of Austin in Taylor. Open since the late 1940s, Louie Mueller’s has been featured on food programs across the globe and was famous way before Franklin’s for its succulent smoked brisket. The place oozes weathered, smoke-drenched, rustic charm and serves up tender beef with a slightly peppery sauce and accompanying sweet sides of potato salad and cole slaw.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/09/26/wild-wild-west http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/09/26/wild-wild-west Mon, 26 Sep 2011 16:58:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/09/26/wild-wild-west
Hold your fire: believe it or not, El Paso was recently named one of the country’s safest cities. Now there’s no reason to avoid this unexpectedly charming West Texas metropolis—especially for those intrigued by a region’s distinctive heritage and food. Even if you’re not a history buff, the mission trail offers a fascinating glimpse into the area’s Spanish colonial past, with three extraordinary adobe missions dating to the 1600s.

Food-wise, El Paso is the Mecca for my favorite Mexican dish: chile rellenos, prepared with velvety white cheese encased in a tangy and lightly breaded anaheim pepper. One of the most memorable places to experience this regional delicacy is at H&H Car Wash, an actual car wash with a tiny restaurant inside offering the tantalizingly smooth yet spicy chiles heated on the same grill as the tasty (and greasy) burgers.

Another area worth exploring in El Paso is Segundo Barrio, a resurgent neighborhood near downtown filled with historic adobe homes and charming corner stores. Be sure to experience Bowie Bakery’s traditional Mexican pastries: empanadas de pina (delectable pineapple turnovers), esponjas, and a cream-filled swan pastry that tastes as sweet as it looks.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/08/21/no-jokin http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/08/21/no-jokin Sun, 21 Aug 2011 15:42:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/08/21/no-jokin
Anyway, the
Anyway, the Bryan-College Station area is far from a cultural vacuum; in fact, it’s brimming with impressive museum facilities, historical attractions, and even (gulp) tasty eateries.

Speaking of culture, one of College Station’s biggest claims to fame is the George Bush Presidential Library and Museum. The easily navigable and impressively interactive facility includes a section of the Berlin Wall, a replica of the White House situation room, and an Oval Office exhibit that allows visitors to sit in the “seat of power” and have their photo taken behind the president’s desk. Fun fact: now that Bush and his wife Barbara have an apartment on the museum grounds, they make occasional “surprise appearances,” shaking hands, signing autographs, and interacting with visitors.

Befitting of the Agriculture referenced in A&M, locals in this region of cattle country take their burgers very seriously. And they don’t get much better than the hearty hunk of meat served at Chicken Oil Co. Despite the name (a reference to a former service station), this restaurant offers top-notch beef in a down-home atmosphere.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/07/15/back-in-the-saddle http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/07/15/back-in-the-saddle Fri, 15 Jul 2011 11:21:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2011/07/15/back-in-the-saddle
My favorite city in Texas (besides Austin) is Fort Worth. Since its population of circa 750,000 is similar to Austin's, it shares a comfortably sized city vibe and easy [...]]]>
My favorite city in Texas (besides Austin) is Fort Worth. Since its population of circa 750,000 is similar to Austin's, it shares a comfortably sized city vibe and easy accessibility. There’s something very appealing about being able to get anywhere in 15 minutes and mastering the road system within a day.

But unlike most small cities, Fort Worth offers a distinctive mix of cattle, cowboys, and culture.
I can’t think of anywhere else where you can marvel at a Matisse then walk across the street to revel in a rodeo. Toss in some amazing Tex-Mex and a trip to the ballpark or botanical gardens, and you’ll be yodeling Cowtown’s praises across the plains.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/10/27/a-wild-book-signing http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/10/27/a-wild-book-signing Wed, 27 Oct 2010 22:36:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/10/27/a-wild-book-signing my book.

While whiling away some time at the Wildflower Center, I was reminded about the site's genuine natural appeal. Although it springs to life primarily from March--May, I found that autumn offered a nice change of scenery, in a subdued yet welcoming way. This season, the Center has been educating people about native fall plants with distinctive aromas, including local varieties such as chocolate daisies, daturas, and shrubby bonesets. It's worth making a trip to the Wildflower Center just to get a whiff!


]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/09/28/but-seriously http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/09/28/but-seriously Tue, 28 Sep 2010 23:23:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/09/28/but-seriously
As improbable as it may sound, Collins has amassed a vast number of historical documents and objects [...]]]>
I made a quick road trip to Dallas this summer to meet Phil Collins. S-s-seriously. I was invited to attend a Dallas Historical Society event at the Hall of State, where Collins discussed the Genesis of his Alamo artifact collection.

As improbable as it may sound, Collins has amassed a vast number of historical documents and objects related to the iconic Battle of the Alamo. Since shifting his primary focus away from music several years ago (due to family responsibilities and physical ailments), Collins has devoted much of his time to pursuing his passion for the Alamo, a topic of fascination since childhood.

To find out how he's been remembering the Alamo lately and about his insightful discussion in Dallas, read the article I wrote in the current issue of The Medallion.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/03/10/far-west-texas-favorites http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/03/10/far-west-texas-favorites Wed, 10 Mar 2010 23:09:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2010/03/10/far-west-texas-favorites Far West Texas, my favorite region of the state. Here's a sampling of locales captured on my iPhone. [...]]]> Far West Texas, my favorite region of the state. Here's a sampling of locales captured on my iPhone.











]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/11/30/the-orange-show http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/11/30/the-orange-show Mon, 30 Nov 2009 20:19:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/11/30/the-orange-show You know that occasional burst of inspiration that enters your brain? The one that encourages you to take an idea, no matter how ambitious, and follow through with it? Jeff McKissack, a Houston postman-turned-artist, actually did it. He built an enormous folk-art monument dedicated to oranges. [...]]]> You know that occasional burst of inspiration that enters your brain? The one that encourages you to take an idea, no matter how ambitious, and follow through with it? Jeff McKissack, a Houston postman-turned-artist, actually did it. He built an enormous folk-art monument dedicated to oranges.

Known as The Orange Show, the 3,000-square foot structure is McKissack's homage to what he called "the perfect food." Standing among modest suburban homes just east of downtown Houston, this bizarrely compelling artwork is comprised primarily of brick and concrete, accompanied by metal sculptures, mosaic tilework, and various objects McKissack found along his postal route.


The Orange Show's absurdity-bordering-on-lunacy factor is rather fascinating, and McKissack's devotion to his subject is admirable in a disturbing kind of way. He apparently believed his life work — it took him nearly 25 years to assemble his collection into a publicly accessible venue — would become a major tourist destination, but somehow it never really caught on with the masses. Regardless, it remains an intriguing folk art environment unlike any other you’ll ever encounter, and it's certainly worth visiting the next time you're in Houston.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/10/16/wild-things-in-waco http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/10/16/wild-things-in-waco Fri, 16 Oct 2009 20:00:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/10/16/wild-things-in-waco
Austin's zoo does its own Austin-y thing respectably (a focus on rescue animals, rural location in the hills, large petting zoo) but Waco's Cameron Park Zoo is a surprisingly wide-ranging and enjoyable experience.

I recently made the trek to Cameron Park Zoo with Max and his Cub Scout pack for a special behind-the-scenes nocturnal safari tour. After feeding bison, viewing jaguars, and creating contraptions for the skunks' breakfast, we set up our pads and sleeping bags in the aquarium where we were lulled to sleep by the soft sounds of bubbling tanks and peaceful visions of gracefully meandering sea life.

The following morning, we had the zoo to ourselves, allowing a public-free environment for crazy Cub Scouts to scream at animals and run amok. In the process, we trekked the zoo's natural pathways through a loosely based theme of following the Brazos River through different habitats. We had up-close views of orangutans, elephants, lions, tigers, giraffes, meerkats, and rhinos. We discovered Where the Wild Things Are. Turns out, they're in Waco.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/09/30/freaky-forest http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/09/30/freaky-forest Wed, 30 Sep 2009 20:43:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/09/30/freaky-forest 200 ghost towns in the Lone Star State, and though many are merely structural remains of houses at forgotten rural intersections, there are others with genuine ghoulish appeal. [...]]]> 200 ghost towns in the Lone Star State, and though many are merely structural remains of houses at forgotten rural intersections, there are others with genuine ghoulish appeal.

In the East Texas Piney Woods, thousands of people thrived nearly a century ago in a busy logging community called Aldridge before abandoning the site practically overnight. Now located in a remote and dense area of the Angelina National Forest, the dead-quiet Aldridge sawmill ruins offer a completely contrary scene to its previous buzz of equipment and activity.

Once bustling with hundreds of homes and several saloons, hotels, and churches, Aldridge workers logged East Texas’ largest longleaf pines--some more than 30 inches in diameter. When the tree supply was depleted by 1920, however, the residents and their families packed up and moved on to the next swath of dense woodland, leaving behind several large-scale mill facilities.

The enormous and stark concrete walls of these buildings are all that remain, offering an eerie juxtaposition to the surrounding natural beauty of the enchanting second-growth forest that emerged in its place. Similarly intriguing are the remnants from local teenagers--graffiti, beer bottles, and flip-flops--who frequent the ghost town to do what they do best (my Forest Service guide simply noted, "A lot of innocence has been lost here.").

Though forest officials discourage publicizing Aldridge's location to deter even more teenagers from discovering and destroying it, legitimate visitors can get a map and directions from the visitors center. Just be sure to hide your cans of spray paint and beer before entering the ranger station.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/09/03/living-like-a-king http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/09/03/living-like-a-king Thu, 03 Sep 2009 14:35:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/09/03/living-like-a-king King Ranch. [...]]]> King Ranch.

This magnificent 825,000-acre South Texas spread (larger than Rhode Island) embodies ranching history, with vintage cowboys, century-old stables, and its own breed of hearty cattle. After spending an entire day touring its massive operations and visiting with an impressive range of King Ranch employees, I discovered why it’s considered the birthplace of American ranching.

The highlight was speaking with several Kineños (King's men), descendants of the original vaqueros (Mexican cowboys) who've worked the ranch for generations. My conversations with these men were fascinating, covering everything from traditional cowboy activities -- cattle wrangling, branding, horse training -- to developing the legendary King Ranch cattle breed Santa Gertrudis, to overseeing various elements of the ranch's agricultural and entrepreneurial empire throughout the world.

The ranch also owns several noteworthy properties in nearby Kingsville, including the King Ranch Museum and King Ranch Saddle Shop. Both offer extensive (and aromatic) items representing the fascinating legacy of this ranching entity, where cowboys still ride horses, drive cattle, and put in a hard day’s work from sunup to sundown.

After a full day of not-so-hard work on the ranch, I headed 20 miles south to the small town of Riviera for dinner at King’s Inn. It’s billed as one of the best seafood restaurants on Texas’ southern Gulf Coast, and for good reason. Be sure to order the lightly breaded fried shrimp, filled with freshly caught flavor and accompanied by the restaurant’s famous spicy tartar sauce (the waiter was sworn to secrecy, though he admitted it contained bread crumbs, “lots of eggs,” and serrano peppers). This stunning sauce enhances everything from the homemade bread to the accompanying slices of fresh, juicy tomatoes.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/08/20/cottens-is-king http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/08/20/cottens-is-king Thu, 20 Aug 2009 23:04:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/08/20/cottens-is-king
Joe Cotten's is the definition of old school--there are no menus, only a selection of several meaty options offered verbally by the old guys on the wait staff (who all wear charming maroon blazers straight out of 1947). Actually, these are probably the same guys wearing the same jackets from 60 years ago.

The food is absolutely amazing, and the beef brisket--offered in both fatty and lean varieties--is the main draw. It's tender and robust, with a smoky mesquite flavor that's unmatched in other Texas barbecue joints. The sliced pork and succulent sausage are almost as tantalizing.

Keeping with the old-school approach, the meal is served on a sheet of wax paper accompanied by a tangy pickle, whole jalapeno, and fresh hunk of tomato. Not surprisingly, this venerable venue doesn't take credit cards, so be sure to have cash on hand since the prices are about the only thing that have changed at Joe Cotten's since 1947.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/08/13/welcome-back-to-the-atx http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/08/13/welcome-back-to-the-atx Thu, 13 Aug 2009 11:07:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/08/13/welcome-back-to-the-atx Taco Cabana, Taco Cabana, Ruby’s Barbecue, and Amy’s Ice Cream. Welcome back y'all!

We could make a meal out of Taco Cabana's tortillas alone — these tasty treats are perfect for rolling and dipping (in pinto beans, salsa, any remaining sauces on the plate) — and their flavorful fajita tacos and sour cream enchiladas are way too bueno to be considered fast food.

Ruby's is a uniquely Austin kind of place: politically correct barbecue. Their meats are lean and all natural (hormone-free, no antibiotics) and their sides and sauce are inventive, with Cajun spices and distinctive blends like the creamy cole slaw infused with curry and peppercorn.

We topped the day off with a banana split from Amy's, another Austin original that always reminds us why we enjoy this city so much. The place has pizzazz, with hipster employees slinging scoops of ice cream behind their backs and pounding in mixtures to the beat of the local indie music blaring in the background. Our cool, colorful, multi-layered banana split was a super sweet and ideal way to celebrate our anniversary and return to our family's hometown.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/07/08/pampa-a-musical-mecca http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/07/08/pampa-a-musical-mecca Wed, 08 Jul 2009 09:15:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/07/08/pampa-a-musical-mecca
Located about 60 miles northeast of Amarillo in the absolute middle of nowhere, Pampa's biggest claim to fame is its Woody Guthrie connection. Guthrie lived here from 1929-36, and his [...]]]>
Located about 60 miles northeast of Amarillo in the absolute middle of nowhere, Pampa's biggest claim to fame is its Woody Guthrie connection. Guthrie lived here from 1929-36, and his legacy endures at the former drug store where he worked and plucked a guitar string for the first time.

One of the best things about my job as a travel writer is discovering unexpected stories. I certainly wasn’t planning to spend much time in the small Pampa shop with the hand-painted "Harris Drugs" sign above the entryway. The historical marker in front piqued my interest, and the reference to Woody Guthrie Folk Music prompted me to step inside.

The place was mostly empty, except for a few glass display cases with Guthrie memorabilia and several small flyers and photos on the walls. I was somewhat surprised to hear a distinctive Midwestern accent emerge from a kindly gentleman in the back of the room. "Come on in! Are ya familiar with Woody Guthrie’s music?" I admitted I was somewhat informed, but that a few of my favorite musicians (Wilco's Jeff Tweedy, Son Volt's Jay Farrar) were devout disciples.

Pat Stewart introduced himself and proceeded to tell me about his undeniably strong connection to Guthrie and his music. He pointed to an old closet door behind him and proudly proclaimed that it once held the guitar that would forever alter Guthrie’s destiny. "He asked the store owner if he could have the guitar, and he told him he could if he learned to play it," Stewart explained.

After hearing more about Stewart's fascination with Guthrie's music and his recent decision to uproot his life from his native Saint Louis to buy the Harris Drug Store in Pampa, it dawned on me that this guy was more than simply passionate about Woody Guthrie's legacy. When I asked him why he made such a drastic move, he told me that nearly 40 years ago, his life was heading in an unspecified yet dangerous direction, and Guthrie's music saved him from going over the edge.

"So here I am, in the place where it all began, helping spread the word about Woody Guthrie's amazing life," Stewart said with a genuine sense of satisfaction. I told him I admired him for his dedication and conviction, and that I'd do what I could to help him on his quest.

If you ever find yourself anywhere near Pampa, make a point of visiting the old Harris Drug Store at 320 South Cuyler Street. Say "Howdy" to Pat, buy a Woody Guthrie CD or T-shirt, and listen to the fascinating stories of two men and their musical missions.

While in town, be sure to drop by the nearby Coney Island Cafe (114 W. Foster Ave.), a quintessential small-town diner straight out of the 1930s. This is as local as it gets (during my visit, a guy announced to everyone that "54 years ago on this very day my twin sister was born!") and the homemade pies are fruit-filled, buttery-crusted perfection. If you're feeling adventurous, opt for the cafe's special menu item: a baked ham sandwich on a bun with mustard, onions, and home- made chili. It’s like a chili dog taken to a whole new level.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/06/29/panhandle-not-so-plain http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/06/29/panhandle-not-so-plain Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:31:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/06/29/panhandle-not-so-plain
The Panhandle [...]]]>
The Panhandle isn’t near the top of most people’s vacation destinations. OK, it isn’t anywhere on the list. But it should be. Or it at least deserves consideration for adding an extra day to the itinerary when passing through on a cross-country trip.

I discovered some great family-friendly destinations, soaked up the wide-open vistas, and experienced authentic down-home Texas-style eateries. I’ll detail these worthy locales in upcoming posts; meanwhile, here’s a sampling of my nearly 300 photos -- a surprising number of captivating images from an area that’s far from ordinary.









]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/06/10/slanted-and-enchanted http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/06/10/slanted-and-enchanted Wed, 10 Jun 2009 16:29:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/06/10/slanted-and-enchanted Liberty Bar just north of downtown off Hwy. 281. [...]]]> Liberty Bar just north of downtown off Hwy. 281.

Things are truly off-kilter here — the walls and floors are slanted, and the story behind the restaurant's warped perspective remains a bit of a mystery, although irreparable damage caused by a major flood during the 1920s is the likely culprit. The building has been in continuous operation for more than a century, housing everything from offices to a rug gallery to boarding rooms for soldiers, brewery workers, and rodeo clowns.

Fortunately, the food in this tilted locale is straight-up tremendous, with a focus on sauced and seasoned meats (pot roast, lamb sausage, herbed chicken). This is Texas-style comfort food, with Mexican salsas and zesty spices adding colorful splashes of flavor to traditional homemade dishes.

The most kid-friendly environment is early Sunday (10:30 a.m.-2 p.m.), when the Liberty Bar's brunch draws families, hipsters, and grandparents with sumptuous egg dishes and the perfect piece of French toast.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/21/summer-hot-spots-in-austin http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/21/summer-hot-spots-in-austin Thu, 21 May 2009 22:27:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/21/summer-hot-spots-in-austin BestKidFriendlyTravel.com showcasing Austin's top summertime destinations for kids. From taking a cool dip at Barton Springs Pool to counting stars at the Capitol Building to roaring at Memorial Museum fossils (like Daniel, at left), there are plenty [...]]]> BestKidFriendlyTravel.com showcasing Austin's top summertime destinations for kids. From taking a cool dip at Barton Springs Pool to counting stars at the Capitol Building to roaring at Memorial Museum fossils (like Daniel, at left), there are plenty of ways to beat the heat in the ATX this summer.

Read all about 'em in the full article.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/12/grounds-for-play http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/12/grounds-for-play Tue, 12 May 2009 23:55:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/12/grounds-for-play
Last weekend I took our boys to the relatively new Lake Park in the Mueller development (former airport project) for a change of scenery
-- what we saw was mighty impressive. Upon entering the securely [...]]]>
Last weekend I took our boys to the relatively new Lake Park in the Mueller development (former airport project) for a change of scenery
-- what we saw was mighty impressive. Upon entering the securely gated area, we encountered other-worldly attractions in the form of funky and imaginative playground equipment (apparently designed in Europe, so it’s…other-continental?).

Instead of the same ol' slides and swings, there are spinning items and climbing areas. Rather than ramps and monkey bars, there are saucer swings and a water spot for excavating sandy canals.

The large trees -- some apparently relocated to the park from Bastrop -- provide plenty of shade, and even the restrooms are surprisingly well-designed and spacious, a bonus for the post-canal-building clothes change.

Lake Park's central location (off Airport Boulevard just east of I-35) makes it easily accessible, and the fancy and fun equipment provides innovative ways for the family to enjoy an hour two together. Book your short flight there soon.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/06/eat-at-joes http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/06/eat-at-joes Wed, 06 May 2009 14:29:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/05/06/eat-at-joes Joe T. Garcia's Mexican restaurant for lunch last week while motoring around the Metroplex for work. This Fort Worth stalwart is worthy of its many accolades, so be sure to experience a meal here if you're in the area. [...]]]> Joe T. Garcia's Mexican restaurant for lunch last week while motoring around the Metroplex for work. This Fort Worth stalwart is worthy of its many accolades, so be sure to experience a meal here if you're in the area.

What stands out at Joe T's are the little details that enhance the food un poco mas than other Tex-Mex restaurants. The warm, freshly made corn tortillas instantly melt a swath of butter; the beef taco features a rich seasoning encased in a crunchy tortilla conjoined at the top with a curly flair; and the enchilada is oozing with smooth, gooey cheese accompanied by a light tomato-based sauce. It's affordable, too -- most dishes are in the $6 range.

Important to note: if you have kids in tow, arrive early to avoid the lines at noon and 6 p.m. Also, Joe T's is one of the few establishments left in the Western Hemisphere that doesn't take credit cards, so bring cash or plan to pay the hefty "convenience" fees at the restaurant's ATM.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/29/texas-best-barbecue http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/29/texas-best-barbecue Wed, 29 Apr 2009 22:08:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/29/texas-best-barbecue
Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que in Llano typically simmers among the Top 3 in statewide rankings (Kreuz Market in Lockhart and Louie Mueller's in Taylor are other heavy hitters) and since it's a family favorite, we try to make an annual excursion to this unassuming Hill Country restaurant each spring. This year, we recruited our friends the Dillings to join us on our pilgrimage -- they were gladly converted.

One of Coopers' many memorable attributes is its method of ordering. Customers walk up to a hot, smoky, open pit and point/grunt at their selected meats hovering near the mesquite coals. The pit boss cuts the desired chunk and dunks it in a big bucket of sauce before slapping it on a plastic tray. If it sounds a bit rustic and unrefined, that's because it is. And it's all part of the charm.


But ultimately it's the tantalizing taste that keeps Coopers at the top of the heap. I'm a huge fan of the pork chop, an enormous hunk of perfectly smoked meat bursting with hearty pork flavor accompanied by a well-balanced pepper and salt rub. The rest of our crew couldn't get enough of the tender, tasty brisket and succulent beef ribs, proclaiming them "the best ever." Even the kids appreciated the experience -- particularly the eating-by-hand approach and slices of exotic white bread.

After our mighty meal, we headed to nearby Robinson City Park to walk off our lunch and soak up some Hill Country scenery. Unfortunately, the park wasn't as amenity-packed as advertised (the playground equipment was decades old, and the "swimming opportunities" apparently refer only to the closed pool rather than the inviting riverbank), but we enjoyed playing near the Llano River dam and watching a rodeo event on the park grounds. Still, we couldn't drop the epic debate about Texas' Best Barbecue -- is it Coopers' pork chop or beef brisket?

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/22/sights-and-sounds-of-mckinney-falls http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/22/sights-and-sounds-of-mckinney-falls Wed, 22 Apr 2009 23:44:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/22/sights-and-sounds-of-mckinney-falls McKinney Falls State Park, with ample water in the creek, fresh leaves boasting their new bright-green colors, and full, flowing falls. With summer on the way (it was a depressingly [...]]]> McKinney Falls State Park, with ample water in the creek, fresh leaves boasting their new bright-green colors, and full, flowing falls. With summer on the way (it was a depressingly foreshadowing
94 degrees in Austin today), now's the time to soak up the sights and sounds of this natural oasis just southeast of downtown.
On Sunday, we packed the boys and a picnic lunch in the car and made the quick 15-minute drive to the park, arriving just before the noontime crowd. We enjoyed our sandwiches in the shade on picnic tables adjacent to the upper falls, which provided a pleasant rushing resonance in the background.

Afterward, we made the relatively easy mile-long trek down Rock Shelter Trail, featuring several attractions that wowed the kids, including a massive 500-year old cypress tree known as Old Baldy, several sturdy wood bridges, and the namesake rock formation that shielded Native Americans for centuries. The falls at the end of the trail were larger and more picturesque than the others, and the boys loved playing in the "pools" that formed via erosion in the rocks.

Another interpretive trail with the park's historic homestead beckoned beyond the falls, but the boys were soaked and we opted to wait for a future excursion when the sight and sound of crashing water is a distant springtime memory.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/14/baseball-and-blossoms-in-the-metroplex http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/14/baseball-and-blossoms-in-the-metroplex Tue, 14 Apr 2009 09:15:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/14/baseball-and-blossoms-in-the-metroplex
One of my favorite ballpark experiences is the feeling that comes with entering the stadium. I can't wait to take in the welcoming expanse of a crisp green field, the solid and satisfying sound of a wooden bat launching a ball into the clear blue sky, and the nostalgic sense of connection with the fans -- from the kids angling for autographs to the grandpas scribbling on scorecards. It certainly helps that the traditionally designed Ballpark at Arlington is such an enjoyable place to catch a game. Max and Daniel had so much fun, they almost forgot to fuss about the languid pace of the three-and-a-half hour contest or plead with us to purchase every edible item the vendors were hawking.

After the game, we drove one full mile to the Hilton Arlington, a highly recommended hotel at a very reasonable price -- $71 for a clean and pleasant room with two comfy double beds, climate control via thermostat, and an indoor/outdoor pool. The only drawbacks were the lack of free Wi-Fi service and an expensive (yet tasty) breakfast buffet.

The next morning, we headed west on I-30 for the quick
15-minute drive to the Fort Worth Botanical Gardens. Apparently April is prime rose-blooming season, so we were treated to thousands of sweet-smelling and vibrantly colored blossoms. What I found particularly fascinating were the ages of the rose varieties, from the teacup-sized pastel styles of the mid-1800s to the enormous multi-hued and bizarrely named modern species.

The rest of the grounds were similarly inviting, with flowing fountains, meandering pathways, and lush gardens bursting with vivid colors, nose-tickling scents, and the accompanying sounds of chirping birds and chattering kids. Incidentally, the main gardens are free of charge, but it's definitely worth plunking down the few extra dollars for the stunning and serene Japanese Garden and tropical-themed conservatory.

Also worth noting: if you're heading to or from the Metroplex via I-35 South, be sure to drop by the Czech Stop in West for a kolache or three. These traditional Eastern European pastries are a big hit with the kids, and they put Danishes to shame with their yeasty goodness and flavorful fruit and cream cheese toppings. If you're feeling especially adventurous, order one with a sausage filling and accompanying cup of bitter truck stop-style coffee.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/08/lbj-country http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/08/lbj-country Wed, 08 Apr 2009 16:45:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/08/lbj-country suggested trek to Pedernales Falls State Park, be sure to set aside some time to explore the nearby community of Johnson City. Most people assume this Hill Country town is named for its legendary native [...]]]> suggested trek to Pedernales Falls State Park, be sure to set aside some time to explore the nearby community of Johnson City. Most people assume this Hill Country town is named for its legendary native son, Lyndon Baines Johnson, but it's actually named after his grandfather's nephew James Polk Johnson (even though he never quite matched the international prestige of LBJ).

The Johnson family truly represents the gritty and tenacious nature of this hardscrabble region, reflected in the determined, down-to-earth approach of LBJ himself. To fully absorb the magnitude of LBJ's legacy, set aside an entire afternoon to experience the fascinating LBJ Ranch in Stonewall (16 miles west), but while you're in Johnson City, you can still get a sense of his family's captivating heritage at the Johnson Settlement and LBJ visitor center.

The visitor center offers an underwhelming overview of LBJ's life, so it's nothing to write home
(or a blog post) about, but the short stroll to the Johnson Settlement is worthwhile and family-friendly, especially to see the grazing longhorn cattle and exhibits in Johnson family buildings about ranching on the Texas frontier. Bonus: you can visit the James Polk Johnson's historic barn!

Just a couple blocks away across U.S. 290 is the charming Silver K Cafe, housed in an old lumberyard alongside several antique shops. The Silver K serves up some fine upscale-ish country fare (the tenderloin steak, crab cakes, and bronzed catfish are recommended) and the Sunday morning brunch buffet is worth planning a trip around, especially for the hearty egg casseroles, tangy fried-green tomatoes, and sumptuous carved roasts.

On a personal note, if you happen to be in Johnson City before April 25, make a point of dropping by Watson Studio Gallery to see our son Max's featured photos in the Young Guns exhibit. We attended the recent opening reception, where Max enjoyed the thrill of the loaded snack table more than the prestige of being an award-winning photographer (one of his images garnered an honorable mention). We're proud of our little shooting star!



]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/03/uchi-unbelievable http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/03/uchi-unbelievable Fri, 03 Apr 2009 22:02:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/04/03/uchi-unbelievable Uchi, one of Austin's top destinations for food-loving visitors and residents. The mega-hype about this restaurant's lofty national reputation and its celebrity [...]]]> Uchi, one of Austin's top destinations for food-loving visitors and residents. The mega-hype about this restaurant's lofty national reputation and its celebrity chef had our expectations sky high. Amazingly, they were met.

After walking through the entryway's small yet welcoming Japanese garden with its soothing fountains and
lightly crunching pebbles, we entered the intimate restaurant and knew we'd be spending the next few hours in an alternate universe. And that's a good thing. There'd be no requests for kids menus, high-chairs, or pagers; instead, we were surrounded by a young, trendy crowd and all the style and energy accompanying that scene.

But ultimately we were there for the food. Even though Paula and I enjoy and appreciate Japanese cuisine, we're not experts. Fortunately, our waiter was extremely helpful with menu navigation and suggestions, and we eventually agreed on a reasonable combination of items that had our mouths watering just as the smooth sake arrived in traditional masu boxes.

The perfectly prepared flavor combinations of our sushi selections set the tone for the entire meal. Every flavor was immaculately balanced with the other -- the peppery seasonings were tempered by the buttery smoothness of the seafood, which, in turn, was expertly balanced by the slight bitterness of the leaf wraps and ginger sauce. It just got better from there, with a savory and creamy baked avocado/crab dish and a tender and flavorful fish entree accompanied by a rich tomato-based sauce. Unbelievable. After the meal, we lingered at the table a little bit longer than usual to soak up every last minute of our other-worldly scene.

While we were out, we dropped by Book People, which
bills itself as Texas' largest independent bookstore, to commemorate the official date of my book release. Sure enough, there was a collection of brand-spankin' new
Moon Texas volumes on the Texas Travel shelf. Since I'd occasionally used that shelf as motivation during my lengthy writing process, it was mighty fulfilling to finally see my name among the titles in this big ol' Texas bookstore.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/31/pedernales-falls-easy-to-go-hard-to-say http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/31/pedernales-falls-easy-to-go-hard-to-say Tue, 31 Mar 2009 13:17:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/31/pedernales-falls-easy-to-go-hard-to-say Pedernales Falls State Park is the ideal getaway for Austinites needing a nature fix. A bonus: the quick trip there via U.S. 290 is shorter than some folks' commute to [...]]]> Pedernales Falls State Park is the ideal getaway for Austinites needing a nature fix. A bonus: the quick trip there via U.S. 290 is shorter than some folks' commute to work.

The only bump in the road en route to Pedernales Falls
is trying to say its name. Locals pronounce it "PURD-nal-lis" even though it looks like it should be "Ped-er-nal-lees." So, if you want to blend right in with Central Texans, jump into your hybrid SUV and tell 'em you're headin' out to Purd-nallis for some eco-friendly nature lovin'.

Last weekend, I spent a chilly night (30 degrees) camping at the park with Max's Cub Scout troop. I'd been to Pedernales before, but never with a gaggle of goofy kids. Instead of sharing my recollections of silly skits, astronomy badge activity, and gross-out jokes, I'll focus on the park's natural attributes and worthy destinations.

The main attraction is the namesake Pedernales Falls, visible from a scenic overlook at the north end of the park. Though the water level varies throughout the year (Spring and late Fall are ideal) the river offers a tranquil respite, and its cascading falls provide a soothing soundtrack to accompany the somewhat-rugged surroundings of loose-barked cypress trees, limestone outcroppings, and knotty cedar bushes. The park also has a covered bird-viewing station with feeders and a drip bath attracting quail, dove, rufous-crowned sparrow, and occasionally even an endangered golden-cheeked warbler.

On your way there or back, drop by the Nutty Brown Cafe for a meal, snack, or drink. The back patio is a great place to enjoy a cold beer in the summer and hear some of Austin's best alt-country bands on the big stage, and the chicken fried steak and Frito pie are too tasty to pass up -- especially when accompanied by an iced tea and jalapeno hushpuppies. Grab a box of pecan pralines on your way out for a lasting reminder of your healthy Hill Country excursion.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/25/south-by-southwest http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/25/south-by-southwest Wed, 25 Mar 2009 22:14:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/25/south-by-southwest South by Southwest, but I definitely felt transported to a worldly cosmopolitan locale. The annual Austin music festival draws nearly 10,000 people from across the globe--bands, critics, business reps, and fans like me--for the music industry's version of [...]]]> South by Southwest, but I definitely felt transported to a worldly cosmopolitan locale. The annual Austin music festival draws nearly 10,000 people from across the globe--bands, critics, business reps, and fans like me--for the music industry's version of Spring Break, complete with ideal weather, ice cold beer, barbecue, and every kind of music under the warm Texas sun.

In years past, I was fully absorbed in all aspects of the festival as a media member, volunteer, ticket buyer, and party crasher. This year, I experienced the excitement on a more low-key level. Fortunately, there are hundreds of fun, worthwhile, and free music options during SXSW week--mostly daytime parties featuring bands playing anywhere possible to maximize exposure.

Since I'm no longer careening on the cutting edge of the hipster indie rock scene, my musical destinations were determined primarily by venue rather than the band lineup. With its freshly blooming lush grounds and easy parking, the French Legation Museum was especially appealing, and fortunately, the bands were just as accommodating. Scotland's Camera Obscura (pictured) was the highlight, with their jangly pop and pleasant melodies providing an ideal accompaniment to the sunny spring afternoon. Danish band Efterklang was entertaining too, but I'll remember them more for their unconventional appearance (fuzzy moustaches, bad '80s haircuts, and European shirts) than their offbeat electro-folk music.

Another festival highlight was soaking up the action on South Congress Avenue, where trendy businesses transform into music venues with stages set up in parking lots, back alleys, and pizza parlor patios. The free beer was flowing, the roots music was rocking, and the scenesters were out in full force as we absorbed the culture with our eyes as much as our ears.

On a final note, I was a bit disappointed at my lack of celebrity interaction this year. In the past, I've met legends like Mick Jones (The Clash), Alex Chilton (Big Star), and Robyn Hitchcock, but my sole "celebrity" conversation was with Efterklang pianist/singer Heather Broderick. That ranks right up there with the times I met Billy Joe Shaver and Beatle Bob.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/21/barbecue-blue-bell-and-baby-horses http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/21/barbecue-blue-bell-and-baby-horses Sat, 21 Mar 2009 22:06:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/21/barbecue-blue-bell-and-baby-horses
Anyway, they claimed they didn't come down here to get sunburned, but rather to see our family and introduce Kerri to Texas. On their last full day here, the seven of us packed into the familymobile and headed east of Austin for a day of traditional Central Texas culture -- barbecue and Blue Bell ice cream

We made it to Smithville (40 miles east of Austin) just before the lunch crowd hit Zimmerhanzel's, an unassuming red metal building on the edge of town containing some of the best barbecue I've ever tasted -- that's quite a statement coming from someone who's sampled most of Texas' esteemed barbecue joints. I opted for the pork ribs, a hefty plate of tender, succulent meat with just the right amount of mild pepper seasoning and tangy sauce to complement the flavorful pork. The mounted deer heads and faded little league photos watched from the walls as we savored every last bite of this memorable meal in a not-so-memorably named restaurant.

After stuffing ourselves with roasted meat, we traveled an hour east to Brenham's famous Blue Bell Creamery for a tour of the ice cream factory. It was fascinating to see the enormous processing machines with tubes methodically releasing a carton's worth of ice cream while conveyer belts whisked products around. It felt like a real-life episode of the Food Network's “Unwrapped." At the end, we each sampled different flavors -- Daniel thoroughly enjoyed all seven of them.

Afterward, we headed 10 minutes down the road to the
charming Monastery Miniature Horse Farm. The kids loved
it, and the highlight for everyone was seeing two newborn
foals (one-day and three-days old), but the cold, wet weather
had us galloping for the car and back to our warm, dry stable
in the big city.

]]> http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/15/the-blog-begins http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/15/the-blog-begins Sun, 15 Mar 2009 21:45:00 +0000 http://theandyrhodes.com/blog/2009/03/15/the-blog-begins Moon Texas guidebook about traveling in Texas. How could I possibly have anything more to say in a regularly updated blog? Simple. Texas is
gi-normous. I only managed to cover a few thousand sites in the book - [...]]]> Moon Texas guidebook about traveling in Texas. How could I possibly have anything more to say in a regularly updated blog? Simple. Texas is
gi-normous. I only managed to cover a few thousand sites in the book - that leaves me with at least 25,000 more restaurants, hotels, and attractions to discover and blog about.

Actually, I plan to use this space to focus on family-oriented destinations in Austin and within a day's drive of Capital City. Besides, I've needed an excuse to sample the dozens of amazing barbecue joints and small-town cafe pies that beckon to me from Central Texas communities.
I also want to check out the nearby swimming holes and let our kids review the playgrounds at state parks.

Check back here occasionally for my write-ups and photos of these Lone Star locales. I'll be sure to let you know if the pork ribs and playscapes are worth the drive.

]]>